The Northernmost Point of our Alaska Journey

How have we been in Alaska for six weeks? Life has taken on a slower rhythm as we’ve learned the area. We check weather daily, adapting plans to rain, temperature and wind. We rise and fall with the sun, staying up too late, rising too early and then falling back to sleep a bit longer. We found balance between life maintenance days and exploration days. But every day, we find gratitude and awe in the world around us.

We reluctantly left the Denali area, continuing north. Along the way, we stopped at another Forty-Ninth State Brewing Company because this one has the movie replica bus 142 from Into the Wild. It’s been ages since I read the book, but seeing the rusted bus, the framed journal entries and photos recounting his time in the bus and his last days on earth only a handful of miles from where we currently were reminded me of how wild this area was.

With photos and fries, we continued our journey to the town of Nenana, home of the annual Ice Classic, where people can bid on a date that the tripod will break through the ice and the winner gets the pot of money. While we didn’t bid, we did explore the museum to learn about the town’s history with the railroad completion in 1923 and where, in 1925, the diphtheria serum bound for Nome was transferred from rail to the infamous dog sled relay that saved the village. While grabbing a pretzel and float at the gallery/cafe, we chatted with the proprietor about travel and the area, spending way longer than intended in town, before moving on.

We had intended to find an overlook to spend the night from iOverlander, but they were all overgrown, offering no views, so we continued on to Fairbanks. Unfortunately, our reservation at Ft. Wainwright was the next day and the office was closed that day and reservations are only made by phone, so we needed a new plan.

We opted for the Fairbanks/Chena River KOA Journey that was just a few miles from post. While an expensive choice ($135 for the night and a late check out), it offered full hook ups and a late check out so we could get laundry done without having to find someplace else to hang out.

The next day, we headed to Moose Loop Military Campground, a water and electric only spot nestled into beautiful pine trees for only $35 a night. They have a dump station, cabins and RV rentals, and a bathhouse and laundry room at their main building just around the corner. This was our first spot where moose and bear weren’t really an issue, so we were able to walk Luna without having to carry bear spray. From here, we explored a few places.

First was North Pole, Alaska. This area has Santa’s House with a giant Santa statue, an actual North Pole, a shop filled with Christmas items and souvenirs, as well as a Santa on duty to hear your wishes. There’s also a spot for fudge and ice cream, and you can request a letter from Santa to be sent to the kiddos. Next door is the Antler Academy where you can pet Santa’s reindeer or just see them from the fence for no cost. With plenty of parking, you can visit passing through with an RV, even if you aren’t staying in the area.

Next, BJ and I headed for Chena Hot Springs Resort for the day. Lou wasn’t interested, so we opted for a date day. On our way through the woods, we stopped at an overlook with several others to watch a moose saunter her way across the highway from pond to river, as though cars and people were non-existant. We arrived and paid $20 each to have all day access to soak in the springs. We soaked for a bit, sharing the pool with the local ducks, then explored the resort with its farm animals, hot houses for growing some of their own food, and many vehicles on display. We were going to do the Ice Museum Tour and the Ice Bar, but at another $20 each, plus another $20 per drink and it was a lot like the Ice! exhibit we had visited several times, we opted against it. Instead we enjoyed sandwiches on the tailgate to enjoy the beautful day, then back into the springs for a final soak. After grabbing postcards, we made our way back to camp, feeling very relaxed.

Next, we explored downtown Fairbanks at the Chena River. We learned about the devastating flood in 1967 that led to many changes in how they managed water in the area. The flood marker is located along the river walk at Golden Heart Plaza, along with the Alaska Highway Signpost, signifying the end of the Alaska Highway. On another day, we came back to do the river walk and see the antler arch nearby, as well as an original cabin at the nearby visitor’s center.

We had planned to leave on Monday, but another weather system was coming in with rain, but more importantly high winds (30-50 MPH, and gusts of 70 MPH) through the pass along our route. While we could have made it to Destruction Bay and waited it out, we opted to extend a couple more days to let it pass, then continue our journey. This allowed us time to do our weekly reset, give Luna an overdue haircut, get Lou to the local airsoft range for his birthday present, and find the local coffee roaster for BJ to replenish his beans.

We planned to stop at the North Pole Coffee Roasting Company long enough to grab beans and a hot drink, but ended up chatting with the owners about their upcoming travels to places we’ve been and hearing about places in Alaska. After more than an hour, we parted ways after exchanging information and a memorable conversation.

This was our most northern part of our journey, so all roads will lead us south from here on out.

If you have missed prior blogs, you can check out the travel map on our home page, or just search the blogs for keyword Alaska.

Join us next week for the twist that makes us change plans 24 hours before leaving.

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